A Close Look at Ellen von Unwerth's Career

Distinguished for her surreal and empowering imagery, Ellen Von Unwerth is an iconic fashion

photographer who has worked with notable fashion brands, celebrities, and supermodels. Her

work has contributed significantly to shifting the industry’s norms. She started off in fashion as a

model. After growing tired of the limiting and formulaic approach of male photographers at the

time, she decided to become a fashion photographer instead. Her rebellion against the typical

approach to fashion photography allowed her to take a personal and intimate approach with her

models. This helped create some of fashion’s most recognisable frames.

Unwerth’s work with Claudia Schiffer for Guess in 1989 sparked a high demand for her services.

Her work displayed a refreshing sense of personality that was not apparent in other

photographers’ work at that time. During her time as a model Unwerth discovered that fashion

photographers did not allow any input from models. The poses were forced and frigid, typically

creating uninspired and insipid frames. These prior experiences encouraged her to place a heavy

emphasis on allowing her models to have input on their poses. This translated beautifully into her

work and promoted a high-spirited vibe in her images. Along with her comforting approach

towards models, she is also revered for the way that she pushes the limits of female sexuality and

seduction. Her unapologetic use of titillation and alluring poses contributed to her outstanding

editorials and magazine covers. Each image held the consistent theme of expressive sexuality but

concurrently held no objectification, perhaps due to the glaring ease in the body language of her

models. She used this creative language to collaborate with big name designers such as Gianni

Versace, John Galliano, and Karl Lagerfeld.

Similar to many prominent fashion photographers, books have been a vital part of Unwerth’s

career. She released her first book “Snaps” in 1994 and it was a reproduction of many of her

images. While handheld devices are the most convenient way to view fashion images, an old

fashioned book often presents better quality and clarity. Photography books will always remain a

profitable and intimate way for photographers to connect with their community. Since 1994

Unwerth has released a further 8 books throughout her career which vary in subject matter.

Interestingly, Unwerth was not restricted to taking fashion photographs. She also directed music

videos and short films for fashion designers. Directing music video’s for musicians such as Cobra

Starship and Kenneth Bager, and short films for fashion designers like Azzedine Alaïa and

Katharine Hamnett. Each film and music video had a distinct and playful touch of personality that

made them noteworthy. The vibrancy and selective camera angles made it easy to discern that

Unwerth was behind the lens. Another example of her multifaceted creativity is shown in various

album covers. She collaborated with acclaimed musicians and shot their album covers. Duran

Duran’s 1990 and 1997 albums “Liberty” & “Medazzaland”, Christina Aguilera’s 2006 album “Back

to Basics”, and Britney Spears’ 2007 “Blackout” album all featured covers shot by Unwerth. This

displays fantastic diversity in her creative capabilities. While Aguilera’s and Spears’ album covers

are arguably the best reflection of Unwerth’s creative approach, each of these covers display her

ability to create images with a narrative. Every album cover that she shot was a perfect reflection

of the identity of the musician she was collaborating with.

Unwerth is most known for her ability to push the boundaries of how society and the fashion

industry perceives female sexuality. It challenges viewers to be open-minded and not to jump

towards objectifying conclusions. While her work varied between black and white images and

colour, yet the design language remained consistent and non-repetitive. Along with the skewed

ideas of sexuality at the time, it is abundantly clear that Unwerth is an innovator who was ahead

of her time. In fact, her innovation was widely recognised and earned her several awards. Most

notably she earned the first prize at the International Festival of Fashion Photography 1991.

Ellen Von Unwerth’s work has a similar sense of beauty and otherworldliness as Steven Meisel’s

but her composition is vastly different. There is a genuine sense of character and rebellious

informality in her photographs that enthrals me when I look at them. The way she frames and sets

up images are equally as enticing as they are beautiful. Her work reminds me of the way Thierry

Mugler left his models feeling after they walked his catwalk. Powerful, romantic, and glamorous.

Arguably everything you could ask for in a fashion image.

Written by Zakariya Ahmad